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In Conversation with Francesca Battocchi from Laba Fanjove Island
Fanjove Island: Naturally Luxurious
News Article
19 July 2024
Type Baa Atoll into Google Images and you’d be forgiven for thinking that there wasn’t much to see above the waterline. The search results turn up image after glorious image of glassy water, pop-art coral and all manner of marine life, included but not limited to: manta rays, whale sharks, clownfish, turtles, dolphins, anemone, something called acropora, more sharks. You get my drift. There’s a whole Wikipedia page dedicated to the marine life of the Baa Atoll that is longer than the page for the atoll itself – but these results only tell half the story of this magical place. That’s because the atoll is also home to some 75 islands, 13 of which are inhabited by land-dwellers – namely, us – and one of which is home to one of the younger resorts in this part of the world: Milaidhoo Maldives.
The Resort Manager, Celine Pezel, has been there since pre-opening, making her the perfect person to run us through the Milaidhoo story. Perched on an island that measures just 300 metres by 180, resort might be too impersonal a word to describe this place. Celine is quick to tell us that the owner, a local Maldivian, didn’t want to just ‘copy and paste’ another 5* hotel from anywhere in the world. He wanted to create something befitting of an island that was previously used as an idyllic picnic and snorkelling spot by surrounding hotels, something that retained a sense of where it is in the world – and what that means for its guests.
Milaidhoo is, by Maldivian standards, a small resort. There are only 50 villas set both on the island and across the water, each of which has its own private pool and decking area. What does this mean for guests? ‘It means that they have total privacy’, Celine says, ‘because although the resort is small, the villas are actually very big’. Retaining a sense of where Milaidhoo is in the world means one thing in particular: romance. The Maldives, I say to Celine, are about as romantic a place as we can think of. She agrees, and it’s clearly something that the hotel draws upon. There are no children under the age of 8, the curved design of the villas means that neighbours are invisible, and most of the guests are couples: honeymooners, yes, but also elderly couples who ‘want to escape reality for a little while’.
In order to help them do that, Milaidhoo provides an array of otherworldly activities. The Baa Atoll is a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, no mean feat when others include Uluru, Komodo Island and the Galapagos, and, as mentioned, the experiences both on top of and beneath the waves are second to none. There are an assortment of sunset, dolphin and general cruises, diving amongst the reef’s inhabitants, snorkelling direct from the villas and the chance to see the ocean’s biggest fish, the whale shark, in one of its largest breeding grounds.
What stands Milaidhoo apart, though, is its proximity to one of our planet’s most beguiling creatures: the manta ray. These winged fish of the sea gather in huge numbers in nearby Hanifaru Bay, a place where boats are not allowed and in to which the only way is swimming. Guests are alerted when mantas are spotted, whisked to the outskirts of the bay by boat, before hopping overboard and swimming alongside up to 200 rays. Celine says there’s not been a single guest who hasn’t returned ‘with stars in their eyes’, and that the experience can be a transcendent one.
Back on shore, experiences at Milaidhoo can be equally beguiling. Celine talks us through the concept of the ‘Milaidhoo Moment’, an idea that guides how her and her team – or ‘family’, as she calls them – go about their business. ‘A Milaidhoo Moment doesn’t need to be expensive’, she says, ‘instead, it’s about reading our guests, many of whom we know from previous trips, and providing them with the small touches that help to reinforce the link between guests and team, and make their stay totally memorable’. I wonder aloud how this might look for someone staying at the hotel and Celine rattles off a number of ‘moments’. ‘Perhaps it’s freshly-prepared bath with champagne after a manta swim, or a surprise room decoration for an event, a framed photo from an experience displayed in the room, a creative chef who knows a guest’s taste preparing a special dish’, there are no rules about what a Milaidhoo Moment is, and the team is empowered to do their bit to make guests happy.
The guests certainly seem happy. The hotel has been open since late 2016 and most of the guests staying there now have been up to 7 times before. In fact, one set of repeaters like Milaidhoo so much that they’ve visited 20 times, clocking in a visit every 4 months and spreading the word far and wide about the beauty of the island. It’s because of this astronomically high number of repeat guests that Celine and the team can be so thoughtful towards them. She describes – rather wonderfully – the standards of operation as ‘guidelines, not straight up rules’. That goes for the chefs in any of the 3 restaurants, the butlers, the marine staff – anyone working at Milaidhoo can interpret them as they please to provide guests with a personal, tailored experience.
It’s a team that numbers some 220 people, representing 15 countries around the world, all of whom live, work and socialise on this cosy slice of paradise. ‘They’re very special’, Celine, whose background is in hospitality and who tells us that cities ‘don’t work for me’, says, ‘with 30 of us here since the beginning and a real family feel, all working for the same goal. If anyone needs help, people are there’, which is important, given the proximity in which everyone lives and works.
Not that any of the above means that Milaidhoo will be resting on any laurels, though. ‘Yes, there are a lot of repeaters’, Celine agrees, ‘but we need to surprise them with new activities, new experiences, new things to make their trip memorable’. Moving forward, this small but mighty resort will move to the next level. There’s no imminent expansion on the horizon – tricky, given the size of the place – but ‘there’s always room for improvement’, and improve they intend to do. Although, at the moment, it’s hard to see how.
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