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Ludo's Research Trip to Malawi

5 December 2024

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After visiting over 650 resorts in the last seven years, I was curious to discover what Malawi could offer. Our latest FAM (familiarisation) trip took me to this fascinating destination, hosted by Crafted Africa, our trusted local partner and on-the-ground experts.

Crafted Africa kindly invited me to explore a country I knew little about but had heard magical things. After spending two weeks immersed in Malawi, I can confidently say it is an authentic and stunningly beautiful destination. The diverse landscapes offer an incredible range of activities, from hiking and safari adventures to tea plantation tours, all topped off with serene relaxation on the shores of Lake Malawi.

At LTE, we take pride in experiencing destinations firsthand. Rather than relying on brochures, we delve deeply into what makes a country or property special, ensuring we can provide the most informed recommendations.

Discover Malawi

Mkulumadzi

A scenic outpost set on the Shire River, perfect for an authentic safari experience.

From the infinity pool overlooking the river to the thoughtfully designed chalets, Mkulumadzi offers an exceptional safari retreat. Located just two hours from Blantyre, an airport easily accessible from Johannesburg, it serves as an ideal starting point for a Malawian adventure.

On arrival, guests must cross a rickety swing bridge suspended over a rocky, dry riverbed. While initially daunting, it becomes easier with each crossing, especially after pre- and post-safari excursions.

Our first evening was thrilling, as we tracked a pride of 14 lions feasting on their kill. The following morning began with an early wake-up call for a four-hour game drive in Majete National Park. The reserve offers the chance to see the Big Five, with lucky visitors also spotting giraffes and wild dogs. A highlight of the stay was witnessing two male kudus locking horns in a dramatic display.

Mkulumadzi provided a fantastic and authentic start to the trip, combining breathtaking scenery with unforgettable wildlife encounters.

Huntingdon House

Experience a tea plantation up close with immersive experiences.

After a few days in Majete National Park, we took a break from safari to visit the cooler regions of Malawi and its tea plantations. This was a refreshing change after enduring 45-degree heat and no air conditioning.

Huntingdon House, a charming five-bedroom property, reminded me of Sri Lanka. Nestled within a tea estate in southeast Malawi, the estate supplies an extraordinary volume of tea bags, primarily to the UK. We enjoyed a firsthand look at the entire tea production process, from planting and chopping to factory processing. Naturally, we sampled the finest teas from Satemwa’s extensive range—an impressive 25 flavors to choose from.

The estate also grows coffee, and we loved touring the grounds. The food was fresh and locally sourced, and the accommodations were simple yet rustic. The service was excellent, with a warm and homely atmosphere.

For the best experience, I’d recommend staying at least three nights to fully explore the area. Mountain bikes are available for guests, and we enjoyed a visit to the Sundowner spot, which offers breathtaking views over the entire valley.

Mvuu Lodge

Malawi’s hidden gem in Liwonde.

After a few hours in a 4x4, we reached the Shire River, where a boat awaited to take us across. Our guide, Eddie, gave us a stern but helpful briefing, advising us to always wear proper footwear to avoid bites from critters. He emphasised the raw beauty of the location, warning us about staying vigilant near the river due to crocodiles and hippos. With those words in mind, we boarded the boat tentatively, embarking on what turned out to be a magical couple of days.

Even before arriving at the lodge, the boat journey felt like a safari. As we crossed, the guide pointed out a fish eagle and a pair of hippos grazing along the riverbank. The short five-minute boat ride led us to the lodge’s raised wooden platform with a number of birds hovering above, setting the tone for an unforgettable experience.

Over the next two days, we enjoyed a variety of activities, including game drives, boat safaris, sundowners, and breakfasts in the bush. The camp seamlessly blended into its natural surroundings, with animals freely wandering through. Close encounters with elephants and lions were a highlight, and with minimal vehicle traffic, it felt like we had the entire park to ourselves.

The rooms were simple yet spacious, the game vehicles brand new, and the service impeccable. The guides were knowledgeable and friendly, and we appreciated the lodge’s initiative to grow its own fruits and vegetables in a fenced-off garden.

Mvuu Wilderness Lodge is a hidden gem. If located in a more well-known African destination, it would undoubtedly be celebrated as one of the best camps in the region. I highly recommend both the lodge and the untapped potential of Liwonde National Park, where it resides.

Pumulani Lodge

A luxury hillside lodge overlooking Lake Malawi with stunning views.

After a few days on safari, having a serene location to unwind is essential, and the shores of Lake Malawi provide the perfect escape. With a variety of properties to choose from, we were fortunate to visit several to understand their unique offerings.

Pumulani Lodge stands out as a hillside retreat ideal for relaxation, boasting breathtaking views of the lake. While the property features a small beach and a pool by the shoreline, the real highlight for me was the hillside main lodge and its incredible rooms. The spacious, beautifully designed accommodations offered the perfect blend of luxury and privacy—a place where I could happily spend a few days undisturbed.

For those looking for more than just relaxation, the lodge offers a range of activities. My top recommendation is the sunset boat cruise on their traditional dhow, which provides a stunning perspective of the lake as the day winds down.

Blue Zebra

A private island escape on Lake Malawi.

Reaching Blue Zebra takes some effort, as there is no nearby airstrip. The journey involves both a car ride and a private speedboat transfer. However, it’s absolutely worth the adventure. The remote location ensures only the most adventurous travellers make it to this serene island retreat. Blue Zebra feels like an extension of a safari, with its rich birdlife, monitor lizards, and vibrant fish always in view.

The tents are thoughtfully scattered across the island. We recommend opting for the larger tents with the best views, as they offer superior light, space, and overall value compared to the smaller garden tents. A highlight of the property is the infinity pool, situated near the weaverbirds' nests. Watching the bright yellow birds tirelessly fly to and from their delicately built nests in the reeds is mesmerising.

The spa, located by the waterfront, is a tranquil haven where the soothing sound of the waves complements the relaxing massages. Another standout experience was the sunset boat tour, which took us around two other inhabited islands, offering spectacular views and an ice-cold local beer or gin and tonic. For land-based exploration, the island features a clearly marked walking path, allowing you to roam freely without worrying about any large predators lurking in the bushes.

Although our stay was brief, every moment on the island felt special. Blue Zebra is a truly unique and off-the-beaten-track destination, making it a memorable way to conclude our time on Lake Malawi.

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