Ludo's Research Trip to Zambia

Our first property during our four-night adventure in Zambia was the Robin Pope-run Nkwali Camp. Overlooking the Luangwa River, the property features six open-fronted chalets. There is a metal frame that comes down at night to prevent the occasional hippo from wandering into the room in search of a light meal.

The main area has a fabulous view of the river, and the days can slip away while looking at the crocodiles and hippos that rule the river—enjoying a lovely hot chocolate and Amarula early in the morning. Dining in the evening is a communal affair, where you swap stories with other guests about the day’s game drives.

The game drives are often run on the other side of the river to the camp, which means that in the morning and afternoon, you have to take a small boat across the river and carefully tread over a couple of sandbags before exploring the national park. This means you avoid the main gate and can get into the park's heart before the masses arrive, providing an elevated game-viewing experience.

Attached to the property is also a private house (Luangwa Safari House) that can cater to larger family groups. Overlooking a watering hole, this is the place to sit in your private pool and watch elephants and giraffes meander through the property.

For the last night in Zambia, we headed to the remote Time + Tide property set overlooking the river. The rooms are incredibly open, offering uninterrupted views of the river. We sat there catching up on work as elephants crossed the river and wandered down the banks. It felt like a scene out of Planet Earth, playing live rather than on a widescreen TV.

The camp itself is very intimate but still has a small pool, and everything they set up is focused around the river. The lunch was some of the best food we had in the bush. Due to the rains that come in during November, it is a seasonal camp, but we were lucky enough to stay there just before it closed.

For an extra special night, the team runs a star bed experience on a dry riverbed. Sleeping with lions and hyenas around your tent is not for the faint-hearted, but it is one of the WOW experiences. They are also famous for their walking safaris, so for the more seasoned safari-goer, this is certainly a camp to keep in mind.

The guiding was of an extremely high standard, both with the bigger cats and the smaller birds.