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Ludo's Research Trip to Sri Lanka
Falling in love with Sri Lanka
News Article
1 October 2026
After an incredible trip through Sri Lanka, I headed across to the Maldives for five nights to experience two very different resorts – Conrad Maldives Rangali Island and Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru.
The Maldives is somewhere I have always found difficult to generalise about. Every island is different, and choosing the right resort for the right person is incredibly important. Some islands are tiny and very intimate, while others have a huge choice of restaurants, facilities and experiences. This trip was a great reminder of just how varied the Maldives can be.
What really stood out throughout was the quality of the service and the constant innovation. There always seems to be something new happening in the Maldives, whether that is underwater dining, new restaurants, marine conservation projects or different ways of experiencing the ocean.
For me, it is also very difficult to beat as an extension to a touring holiday in Sri Lanka. After travelling around the island, exploring, eating, walking and sightseeing, arriving in the Maldives and doing very little for a few days is a pretty wonderful way to finish a trip.
This trip was also a good opportunity to fly with SriLankan Airlines, and I came away really impressed.
The service was warm and friendly, the whole journey was easy, and I thought it represented very good value for money. For clients combining Sri Lanka and the Maldives – or looking for an alternative to travelling via one of the big Middle Eastern hubs – I think it is an option well worth considering.
SriLankan Airlines is also a member of the Oneworld alliance, which is particularly useful for British Airways Executive Club members as eligible flights can earn Avios and tier benefits.
This was my first time arriving through the new terminal at Velana International Airport, and first impressions were excellent. I was particularly impressed by the lounge before transferring across to the seaplane terminal.
The seaplane journey is an experience in itself. Flying low over the atolls gives you some extraordinary views of the islands, reefs and different shades of the Indian Ocean below. Conrad has also written into its transfer arrangements that the seaplane can make a maximum of one stop enroute, which is a small but important detail in making the arrival experience as smooth as possible.
Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is a big resort by Maldivian standards, spread across two guest islands, with a separate island for staff. I actually really liked the sense of space this created. There is plenty to explore, and it works particularly well for guests who want the beauty of the Maldives without feeling restricted to a very small island.
One of the biggest highlights is the food. There is an extraordinary selection of restaurants and bars across the resort – currently 12 in total – so even over a longer stay there is plenty of variety.
I visited Ithaa, the resort’s famous underwater restaurant, for Champagne and canapés. Sitting beneath the surface surrounded by the reef and marine life is an amazing experience, and Ithaa was the world’s first undersea restaurant. It is one of those places that really demonstrates the level of imagination that has gone into developing resorts in the Maldives.
The food throughout my stay was superb, and the quality and variety of the different outlets really impressed me. The Sushi at lunchtime was a particular highlight.
I also loved the overwater spa, while the house reef offered some good snorkelling straight from the resort. Manta rays are regularly seen in the waters around Rangali, and you can sometimes spot them swimming around the bridge connecting the islands – not a bad thing to look out for on your way to dinner! Conrad also highlights the surrounding waters for both manta ray and whale shark encounters.
The accommodation was another real strength. The rooms and villas are incredibly spacious and feel properly luxurious, with plenty of room to settle in rather than simply using them as somewhere to sleep.
What perhaps impressed me most, though, was the service. Every single member of staff I passed greeted me. That sounds like a small thing, but across a resort of this size it creates a genuinely welcoming atmosphere and says a lot about the training and culture of the hotel.
There is plenty happening beyond the traditional Maldives experience too, including a new padel court that was just launching during my stay.
Overall, I think Conrad is a brilliant option for someone who wants the Maldives but also wants choice. It has the beaches, overwater villas and marine life you would expect, but combines them with an exceptional range of restaurants, facilities, and experiences. It would work particularly well for a longer stay where having plenty to do – and plenty of different places to eat – becomes more important.
My final two nights were at Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru, which offered a completely different Maldives experience. The journey itself is much simpler, with the island around 25 minutes by speedboat from Velana International Airport. It is a small, intimate island and immediately feels much more traditional and authentic.
There are only 48 villas and, unlike many newer Maldivian resorts, there are no overwater villas. Every villa is on the beach and has its own private pool.
I would probably position Banyan Tree as an entry-level five-star option. The villas have a slightly more traditional feel and the bedrooms themselves aren't enormous, but that is partly because so much emphasis has been placed on outdoor living. The bathrooms are outside, the villas have private pools and plunge pools, and you are only ever a few steps from the sand.
The island itself is incredibly easy to walk around and is surrounded by lovely sandy beaches. It feels relaxed, understated and much more intimate than Conrad.
One of the things I loved most was the resort's focus on marine conservation. Banyan Tree has been working on marine conservation here for decades and its Marine Lab runs coral restoration, reef monitoring, and marine education programmes, with guests also able to get involved in some of the work.
Spending time with the marine team and learning more about the coral propagation and monitoring work added another dimension to the stay. It doesn't feel like sustainability has simply been added as a marketing exercise; it is a genuine part of the identity of the island.
Guests can also access nearby sister-island experiences, which expands the choice of snorkelling and dining and helps overcome one of the potential limitations of staying on such a small island.
Another standout was Madi Hiyaa, the resort's striking overwater Japanese restaurant. Its design is fabulous, with a sea-water pool at the end overlooking the ocean. It is a beautiful addition to what is otherwise a very traditional Maldivian island, and a great example of the resort evolving without losing its character.
Banyan Tree is very different from Conrad, and that was exactly what made visiting the two together so useful. Conrad is about choice, space, facilities, and an enormous variety of experiences; Banyan Tree is much smaller, simpler and more intimate, with a real emphasis on nature and the marine environment.
The Maldives really is a very special destination, but I don't think it is necessarily for everyone. Some islands are extremely small, and if you are someone who wants to be constantly exploring, sightseeing, and moving around, choosing the right resort is crucial. Five nights on one island can feel completely different depending on whether you have three restaurants or twelve, whether you can visit neighbouring islands and how much there is to do on and off the water.
But when you get the island right, there are very few beach destinations that can compete.
The service I experienced was superb, the food was far better and more varied than people might expect, and I was constantly impressed by the innovation. Resorts are continually finding new ways to create experiences around dining, wellness, marine life, and sustainability without losing sight of the fundamental reason people travel here: extraordinary beaches, warm water and the chance to properly switch off.
Most importantly, this trip reinforced just how well the Maldives works alongside Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka gives you the culture, wildlife, scenery, food, and adventure; the Maldives gives you a few days where there is absolutely nothing you have to do. As a beach finish after a touring holiday in Sri Lanka, I think it is very hard to beat.
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