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Ludo's Research Trip to Mauritius & Rodrigues
An old favourite & a new experience
News Article
5 September 2024
The Republic of Zambia has been home to people for rather a long time. A century ago, a pair of miners in Kabwe District struck, not gold or diamond, but bone. They had chanced upon the skull of an early human, a man who had roamed the plains of central Africa over 300,000 years before being dug from the earth. He became known as Broken Hill Man, and his discovery reshaped our understanding of early humans.
Since Broken Hill Man’s time, there’s been a continuous stream of others: Khoisan people, Batwa, Bantu, Chewa, Tumbuka, Ngoni. A long list of peoples who have called this country home and who, today, include our guest and her family. Cath Brink’s parents moved to Zambia from South Africa in 1998. ‘They came for 6 months,’ she says, before pausing, ‘they’re still here. And they’re not going anywhere.’
As we launch Zambia as a Love To Explore destination, we only thought it right to sit down with someone who knows the country inside out, who was born there, and who now lives and works in what she calls one of ‘Earth’s last true wildernesses’. Cath was 5 when her parents relocated and her life has been steeped in the country and its travel industry. Her mum and dad started Livingstone’s Adventure, a pioneering activities tour operator that sends its clients across the country in microlites, rafts, Jeeps, planes – ‘they’ve pretty much got them all’.
Now it’s Cath’s turn. After a spell in luxury travel in London learning the ropes, she’s founded Tusks and Trails, a fledgling destination management company which aims to show as much of this remarkable country to punters. It’s going good guns, too, with over 300 lodges on the books and a small but mighty team making it happen. It was in London that Cath met her fiancé, Dan Bradshaw, with whom she started Tusks and Trails. And he too has Zambian connections: His grandparents lived and farmed in the area and, as Dan was growing up in the UK, he would visit the country 3-4 times a year with his family.
No wonder, I muse, that they’re back. ‘Yeah, I think it’s fair to say this place is in the blood,’ Cath says, ‘it gets under your skin.’ Cath and Dan always had designs on moving back and setting up their own thing and, after a couple of locked-down years in London, they finally jumped ship and struck out alone. The business is flying – you’ll hear more about that in next week’s post – and they spend their days organising and selling trips to the country that they love.
‘Zambia is quite interesting in terms of tourism,’ Cath tells me, ‘as it’s the last true remaining wilderness in this part of the world.’ As a result, the game viewing across the country is virtually unrivalled. There’s Luangwa, the birthplace of the walking safari and a national park with the highest density of leopards per square metre anywhere on the planet. ‘99% of the lodges in the park are on the banks of the river that flows through its centre,’ Cath says, ‘and, because of the specific mineral in the banks’ soil, it draws in feeders and, with them, predators.’ That’s why, for the 6 months of the year that the park is open, the lodges in Luangwa offer the finest viewing going.
There’s more, though. Places like the Lower Zambezi National Park, which is game abundant but hilly and where you get everything bar rhino. ‘It’s enormously remote and hard to access, so the lodges are on the steeper side price wise, but it’s also the go-to place for fly camping.’ This sounds unappealing until I hear the word glamping. ‘It’s basically when camps are set up on the move, it’s very rustic, very wild, a little like safari glamping.’ And there’s Kafue, the biggest in the country – ‘it’s MASSIVE’ – with hot spots like the Busanga Plains, so rich in game that it used to be the King of Barotseland’s personal hunting ground and the only place in the country with wild dogs and cheetah. Then of course, there are the falls. The Victoria Falls. Cath’s family have a special connection – and camp – in this neck of the woods, so we’re going to cover it in more detail in a couple of weeks, but suffice to say it’s Zambia’s one unmissable.
The lodges that Cath, Dan and the team sell are, and there’s no beating around the bush, pretty high end. The Zambian market rivals Botswana in terms of level, with luxury the watch word and the toughness of accessing some places resulting in magical, but expensive, places to stay. ‘We’re becoming the new star in the luxury safari market’, Cath tells us, ‘with the wilderness as our calling card. We’re being noticed, both by tourists and investors, so it’s an exciting time for the Zambian tourism industry.’
It’s easy to see why. Cath lights up when I ask her to describe life in Zambia. She pauses, though, ‘I don’t just want to say it’s incredible. It’s so unique, even within the southern Africa and safari space, because it’s flown under the radar for so long, so it’s not boastful or arrogant.’ Their president, who Cath describes as amazing, has recognised this, carefully opening up the country so that outsiders can experience its beauty with their own eyes. ‘We’re no longer a stop off point of a trip, we’re a one stop destination’. The country really does have everything: game, service – ‘the calmest, kindest people I’ve met’ – landscapes, wildness, a wonderful deference to the chiefs of the land, who remain the highest power, and an abiding connection with nature and the land.
Much of life in Zambia – particularly in the travel business – is dictated by its rains. When they come, some parks shut and vast swathes of plain are submerged. Their cyclical nature mean that Zambians are linked to the powers of nature in a way that not many people are. When Cath and Dan arrived in the country, though, the rains hadn’t come. Nor would they, as Zambia was subjected to its second worst drought on record, which brought with it enormous challenges. There was power load-shedding, which meant 18 hours a day with no power, the obvious impact on crops and farming, as well as on the business as a whole.
Cath is stoical, though, and quotes her dad. ‘You have to understand that the fundamental principle is that Africa will change you, not the other way around.’ When you appreciate that, she says, you’re off to a start. It’s also something that her and Dan say to one another – as well as ‘AWA, Africa Wins Again’ – when times are tough: ‘it keeps us grounded.’ The highs, though, are what make this place what it is. Cath cites commutes made longer by herds of elephants in the road, vast trips through even vaster landscapes, and more game than I thought possible to take in in a single lifetime. And it’s clear that she and Dan want to share their extraordinary home with their (and our) clients. So, as we launch this wonderful country, why not take a look for yourself?
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